5. Marche Biologique, Boulevard Raspail, St.-Germain - beautiful open air market to stroll on Sunday mornings. Excellent variety, quality of foods, etc.
6. Jardin du Luxembourg - A great pace to sit and read a book in the fall. Paris has 2 1/2 times the population of London but the quality of life is enhanced by the lovely parks, respect for property. The Jardin du Luxembourg is known as the "lungs of the left bank."
7. Le Grand Roue - The gigantic ferris wheel comes once a year to the Place de la Concorde at the Jardin du Tuileries. From the top of the ferris wheel, there is a great view towards the Musee' du Louvre in one direction, and looking down the Champs-Elysees toward the Arc de Triomphe in the other direction.
8. Le Grand Rex movie theater - Many Paris cinemas are beautiful. If a film is marked "VO" it means it is in the original language, without being dubbed.
9. Le Petit Journal St. Michel (near the Luxembourg Gardens) - Dixieland jazz by different bands every Monday - Saturday night. Friendly and fun.
10. St.-Etienne-du-Mont - Spectacular church with fantastic carved marble altar screen.
11. Galerie Vivienne. Lots of beautiful connecting passages of shopping galleries. Shops such as tea rooms, stamp shops, tobacco, etc. 19th Century flavor.
12. Les Halles des Martyrs. From Grand Boulevards to Montmartre walk by the cafes, and shops selling olive oil and chocolate and ceramics, etc.
13. Notre Dame Casthedral's rose windows - Take the time to sit and study the stained glass, and think about the fact that Notre Dame was constructed before blueprints existed, when the master builder drew his designs in the sand.
14. Berthillon - Ice cream parlor with the best ice cream in Paris, on the Isle de la Cite'. Cherry sorbet recommended.
15. La Maison de L'Amerique Latin (217, boulevard St.-Germain, Seventh Arrondissement; 33-1-49-54-75-10) - Latin-American cultural House & excellent French restaurant. Serves classic French cuisine in an elegant “jardin à la Française,” tucked behind two 18th-century mansions. Thirty tables under white parasols overlook two acres of manicured lawn. Expect to spend about 55 euros for dinner without wine, about $87 at $1.58 to the euro.
16. Musee' Rodin - Eat lunch in the gardens. Beautiful surroundings, plenty of benches.
17. Hotel de Crillon & the Bristol - Too expensive for dinner, go for drinks in the authentic 18th century palace bar before going elsewhere for dinner. Dress appropriately.
18. L'oeil du Connaisseur, Cabinets des Dessins - A former head of the Musee' du Louvre's drawings department told Mr. Nix about a 17th century reading room with fabulous drawings. Mr. Nix went and a guard told him he couldn't enter without a letter from his Ambassador. Mr. Nix found another employee who dictated a letter and gave him a lifetime membership card. He was able to examine, by request, many original priceless drawings. No fee.
19. Musee Marmattan - Monet in the Passy. Monet's painting "Impressions of Sunrise" gave the Impressionist Movement its name.
20. Le Reminet is a small left bank restaurant in the 5th arrondisement. It has a friendly staff and good food, looking across at Notre Dame Cathedral.
21. Chatou - Fair in the Paris surburbs. In March and October, there are large antiques fairs, with 500 booths. In addition to antiques, there is a whole alley of food (mostly grilled ham). Take the RER. You'll see the actual restaurant pictured in Monet's "The Boating Party."
22. Monet's Giverny - Take the short train ride from Gare St-Lazare station to the town of Giverny. The luxurious growth of flowers in Monet's gardens are different in different seasons.
23. Vaux-le-Vicomte - The best chateau to visit. Smaller, not as overwhelming as Versailles. The architect, landscape designer, and interior designer were the same team that created Versailles. Beauutiful.
24. L'Haye La Roses - Gardens near Orly airport. 20,000 rose bushes.
25. Chateau de Malmaison - Empress Josephine's talent for horticulture on display in fabulous gardens. The spirit of Josephine permeates.
Spalding Nix's PARIS FAVORITES:
Sightseeing & Restaurants
SIGHTSEEING
1. By Boat
Take a romantic evening cruise along the Seine in a bateau mouche (literally “boat fly”). My favorite boat company is Bateaux Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf. Most of the Seine River's sightseeing fleets operate from piers near the Eiffel Tower & Trocadéro. The Vedettes du Pont-Neuf are a conspicuous exception: They depart from a pier on the Ile de la Cité, within easy walking distance of locations in the 3rd, 4th, 5th, & 6th arrondissements. The Vedettes du Pont-Neuf pier & snack bar are at the western tip of the Ile de la Cité; a staircase leads down from the Pont-Neuf bridge. Don't forget to bring a blanket & a bottle of champagne!
2. From Way Up High
Climb the stairs to the second level of the Eiffel Tower, & then take the elevator to the top.
3. Louvre at Night
Check out the Louvre at night. On Wednesdays & Fridays, the museum is open until 10:00 p.m. You practically get the whole museum to yourself. Be sure to check online, because their opening schedule changes often. And upon exciting the museum, make your way to the Cour Carrée (“Court Square”) which is lit up beautifully at night.
RESTAURANTS
1. Best Steak-frites in Paris
My favorite restaurant in town is Le Relais d’Entrecote. There is no menu. They only serve steak. The only question they ask you is “Sanglant (bloody), medium (medium) ou brûlé (burnt)?” And save room for dessert. Their profiteroles are divine!
Le Relais de l'Entrecôte (15 Rue Marbeuf; 33 1 49 52 07 17; dinner for four $80).
2. Best Sunset Drink in Paris
After a long day at the Louvre enjoy the sunset & a drink on the outdoor patio of the Café Marly overlooking the Louvre courtyard. Don't let the host/hostess sit you inside!
Café Marly (93, Rue Rivoli; 33 1 49 26 06 60
3. Best Souffles in Paris
Check out La Cigale Recamier (“The Grasshopper Recamier”) famous for its soufflés. Both main course & dessert soufflés are served. They are perfect every time. Reservations are strongly recommended. The dessert soufflés are to die for!
La Cigale Recamier (4 rue Recamier; Arrondissement 7; 33 1 45 48 87 87