"SECRETS OF PARIS"
Presented by Lewis Nix
May, 2009
Highlights from Lewis Nix's presentation "Secrets of Paris" for the Toulouse-Atlanta Sister Cities Group. The discussion highlighted many tips for a more thorough enjoyment of Paris based on years of leisurely visits by Mr. Nix and his family.
1. Cour Carre - Linger at the square courtyard at the Louvre, by the fountain, and listen to the excellent flute player who is usually there at night. The elegant courtyard was built, in part, during the reign of Francois I, with additions commissioned by Louis XIII and Louis XIV. Warning: gates are locked at 10 PM.
2. Bateaux Mouches sur la Seine - OR take a night tour on one of the cheaper boat trips, Vedette de pont neuf, leaving from the Ile de la Cite' (near the Pont-Neuf) and get a breath-taking view from the top of the boat.
3. PARISCOPE Guide - convenient weekly magazine lists all concerts, art galleries, museums, movies. Good summary of many free concerts. Free concerts often as good quality as those that have fees, and in beautiful locations, updated Wed. to Wed.
4. Opera Garnier - the Paris Opera performs there, and the excellent Paris ballet. Their ticketing system allows you to see on your computer screen what the view of the stage from a particular seat looks like. Sometimes it is possible to buy an inexpensive ticket and later move into more expensive vacant seats.
5. Marche Biologique, Boulevard Raspail, St.-Germain - beautiful open air market to stroll on Sunday mornings. Excellent variety, quality of foods, etc.
6. Jardin du Luxembourg - A great pace to sit and read a book in the fall. Paris has 2 1/2 times the population of London but the quality of life is enhanced by the lovely parks, respect for property. The Jardin du Luxembourg is known as the "lungs of the left bank."
7. Le Grand Roue - The gigantic ferris wheel comes once a year to the Place de la Concorde at the Jardin du Tuileries. From the top of the ferris wheel, there is a great view towards the Musee' du Louvre in one direction, and looking down the Champs-Elysees toward the Arc de Triomphe in the other direction.
8. Le Grand Rex movie theater - Many Paris cinemas are beautiful. If a film is marked "VO" it means it is in the original language, without being dubbed.
9. Le Petit Journal St. Michel (near the Luxembourg Gardens) - Dixieland jazz by different bands every Monday - Saturday night. Friendly and fun.
10. St.-Etienne-du-Mont - Spectacular church with fantastic carved marble altar screen.
11. Galerie Vivienne. Lots of beautiful connecting passages of shopping galleries. Shops such as tea rooms, stamp shops, tobacco, etc. 19th Century flavor.
12. Les Halles des Martyrs. From Grand Boulevards to Montmartre walk by the cafes, and shops selling olive oil and chocolate and ceramics, etc.
13. Notre Dame Casthedral's rose windows - Take the time to sit and study the stained glass, and think about the fact that Notre Dame was constructed before blueprints existed, when the master builder drew his designs in the sand.
14. Berthillon - Ice cream parlor with the best ice cream in Paris, on the Isle de la Cite'. Cherry sorbet recommended.
15. La Maison de L'Amerique Latin (217, boulevard St.-Germain, Seventh Arrondissement; 33-1-49-54-75-10) - Latin-American cultural House & excellent French restaurant. Serves classic French cuisine in an elegant “jardin à la Française,” tucked behind two 18th-century mansions. Thirty tables under white parasols overlook two acres of manicured lawn. Expect to spend about 55 euros for dinner without wine, about $87 at $1.58 to the euro.
16. Musee' Rodin - Eat lunch in the gardens. Beautiful surroundings, plenty of benches.
17. Hotel de Crillon & the Bristol - Too expensive for dinner, go for drinks in the authentic 18th century palace bar before going elsewhere for dinner. Dress appropriately.
18. L'oeil du Connaisseur, Cabinets des Dessins - A former head of the Musee' du Louvre's drawings department told Mr. Nix about a 17th century reading room with fabulous drawings. Mr. Nix went and a guard told him he couldn't enter without a letter from his Ambassador. Mr. Nix found another employee who dictated a letter and gave him a lifetime membership card. He was able to examine, by request, many original priceless drawings. No fee.
19. Musee Marmattan - Monet in the Passy. Monet's painting "Impressions of Sunrise" gave the Impressionist Movement its name.
20. Le Reminet is a small left bank restaurant in the 5th arrondisement. It has a friendly staff and good food, looking across at Notre Dame Cathedral.
21. Chatou - Fair in the Paris surburbs. In March and October, there are large antiques fairs, with 500 booths. In addition to antiques, there is a whole alley of food (mostly grilled ham). Take the RER. You'll see the actual restaurant pictured in Monet's "The Boating Party."
22. Monet's Giverny - Take the short train ride from Gare St-Lazare station to the town of Giverny. The luxurious growth of flowers in Monet's gardens are different in different seasons.
23. Vaux-le-Vicomte - The best chateau to visit. Smaller, not as overwhelming as Versailles. The architect, landscape designer, and interior designer were the same team that created Versailles. Beauutiful.
24. L'Haye La Roses - Gardens near Orly airport. 20,000 rose bushes.
25. Chateau de Malmaison - Empress Josephine's talent for horticulture on display in fabulous gardens. The spirit of Josephine permeates.